No matter what the preparation, pork frequently is the focus of feasts during festivals, weddings, and family get-togethers among the numerically preponderant Tangkhul Naga tribes of Ukhrul district in Manipur.
The air is thick with admiration at one such banquet, where tradition echoes through the hills and valleys. “This is simply great,” exclaimed Ashung Horam as he savoured a succulent piece of pork on his plate.
Ngakuimi Awungshi, the maestro behind Hao services caterers and the first of its kind in the district, stands nearby, accustomed to the shower of accolades. For Awungshi, hearing praises about the delectable dishes served by his team is a routine, yet gratifying, experience.
The recent local wedding at a church, where his team prepared the feast, garnered enthusiastic appreciation. “I receive compliments on the taste of our pork from locals and outsiders,” Awungshi said. “I am glad that Hao services is doing its bit in promoting traditional cuisines.”
Hao services caterers, serving Tangkhul Naga dishes cooked in the traditional style, is a trailblazer in a land where the concept of catering was a newcomer until recently.
Culinary revolution
Since its inception in 2015, Awungshi and his team have not only tantalised taste buds but also challenged local norms. Traditionally, weddings in the Tangkhul community meant collective cooking – a joyous yet labour-intensive affair where family and friends would come together to prepare lavish feasts.
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Then came Hao services, disrupting the norm and proving that weddings could be joyous without the customary chaos of collective cooking and cookouts. “Hao services was founded with an aim to provide the best food at an affordable price so that immediate family members can also enjoy auspicious events to the fullest without having to cook in the kitchen,” Awungshi explained.
The journey wasn’t smooth at the beginning. Some locals feared that catering businesses offering hands-off meals could erode the tradition of wedding feasts. Undeterred, Awungshi focused on the support he received and let the flavours of his team’s creations speak for themselves. “I knew there would always be naysayers. So, I chose to focus on whatever support I received,” he said.
Over time, the delectable dishes won hearts, and the business flourished. “We cater upwards of 100 events every year, cooking for approximately 100,000 people,” Awungshi proudly declared.
What’s cooking?
Clients are presented with a menu boasting over 30 dishes, many inspired by local, time-tested recipes. Signature dishes include pork, beef, and chutney crafted in the traditional way.
But the pièce de résistance is the pork cooked low and slow in the truly traditional Raphei (northern Tangkhul) style. The magical preparation involves boiling a broth of chilli powder for an hour, followed by the addition of generous pieces of pork, simmering for a couple more hours.
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The unsung heroines behind these gastronomic marvels are the women employed in the catering service. Awungshi acknowledged their pivotal role: “Hao services owe a lot to the women who cook all the meals that are served in events throughout the year.”
Around 30 women work for him for approximately 100 days each year. Asem from Talui village, earning around Rs 15,000 a month during peak seasons, takes time off from farming to contribute to the catering service.
“It has worked out very well so far for many of us,” she attested to the success – great food and a side hustle that brings decent income for the home cooks. This culinary symphony conducted by Hao services, is a harmonious blend where the food is exceptional, and the cooks find financial fulfilment – a true win-win on the hills of Ukhrul.
Photo Essay: Sowing seeds of festivity in Manipur
The lead image at the top shows women cooking at a traditional wedding (Photo by Worngachan A Shatsang)
Worngachan A Shatsang is a freelance journalist based in Ukhrul, Manipur. He writes about football, rural life, farming and environmental issues. He was a Rural Media Fellow 2022 at Youth Hub, Village Square.
