On a sweltering day of coastal exploration in Goa, a roadside quench awaits every traveller — long sips of tender coconut water. Revered for its natural refreshment and health benefits, it’s a South Asian staple. Yet, Goan coconut farming lags behind in modern agricultural practices due to historical neglect and land commercialisation. However, change is brewing for the Konkan coconuts.
Globally, Cocos nucifera, the humble coconut, is a prized commodity, celebrated for its versatility and organic properties. India stands as the third-largest exporter of coconuts and copra, among a select group of 15 coconut-producing nations. In the year 2021-22, India yielded a staggering 20,309 million coconuts, contributing to over 31 percent of the world’s production. According to the Coconut Development Board (CDB), the country achieved a productivity rate of 9,346 coconuts per hectare, with a total coconut cultivation area spanning 21.73 lakh hectares.
While Kerala, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh collectively contribute nearly 90 percent of India’s coconut production, Goa boasts an indigenous industry—feni. This toddy-like drink is distilled from ripe cashew fruit as well as coconuts, exemplifying the manifold uses of this versatile fruit in Goan households. Now, modern entrepreneurs are revitalising the coconut industry.
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The beginning of a business
Nilisha Ferrao, a resident of Navelim in Goa, had her coconut epiphany while toiling away in Mumbai. It was there that she recognised the true worth of her home’s coconut bounty, and began sharing her homemade cold-pressed coconut oil with friends. She was soon on a journey to turn her passion into a business venture.
Leveraging her family’s coconut harvest as well as produce from other farms, Ferrao birthed Narla seven years back. The goal? To deliver finished coconut-based products directly to consumers.
What sets Goan coconut oil and Goan coconut vinegar apart is the distinct character of Goan soil, enriched with trace minerals that influence the quality of not just coconuts but all produce from this land, Ferrao said.
“The availability of river water and rain with lower pollutant levels compared to other regions contributes to the unique taste, texture and aroma of coconuts cultivated here,” she added.
Coconuts exhibit variations in shape, size, colour and sweetness across diverse climatic and soil conditions. The Konkan coconuts’ history is intertwined with the Portuguese invasion, as they introduced the art of fermenting coconut sap. This innovation allowed them to utilise Konkan coconut vinegar for preserving meat and fish during their arduous voyages from Goa to mainland Europe. This gave rise to the coconut feni, a treasure unique to this coastal paradise.
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Prospect of growth
Narla’s inception was humble, marked by a single product – homemade, cold-pressed virgin coconut oil. When Ferrao bid farewell to her corporate life in Mumbai and returned to her roots, she gifted each of her colleagues and friends a bottle of this liquid gold. The enthusiastic reception and effusive praise from her friends served as an encouraging testament to her entrepreneurial journey.
Fast forward, and Narla now boasts an extensive array of coconut-based offerings like coconut vinegar and milk, coconut blossom sugar, desiccated coconut and even coconut flour from Konkan region.
“Our commitment to chemical-free production is our guiding principle. The flour is gluten-free, our oils remain cold-pressed and unrefined, and our natural coconut oil soaps are free from parabens, sulfates and artificial fragrances,” Ferrao said.
One of her missions is also to incentivise family orchards to continue their coconut cultivation.
“We collaborate with organic farms that have upheld the tradition of coconut cultivation for generations, ensuring the quality of raw materials,” Ferrao said. “We have also offered a lifeline to disheartened farmers who contemplated abandoning coconut farming due to plummeting prices in local markets and fierce competition from neighbouring states.”
The future of Konkan coconuts
Coconut oil holds a prominent place in traditional Indian households. In the southern states, it serves as the quintessential cooking oil, and there is a growing movement to replace imported palm oil with this indigenous treasure. Notably, Goa once thrived on toddy tapping as a primary source of income for locals, even just a decade ago.
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“In comparison to countries such as the Philippines, Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam, India hasn’t emphasised ‘value addition’ when it comes to coconuts. While consumers are gradually embracing products like virgin coconut oil and desiccated coconut, there hasn’t been a concerted effort to brand these products with a ‘Made in India’ strategy,” Ferrao said, adding that South Asian nations have pioneered innovative products like coconut jam, honey, sauces and chips. “We plan to introduce some of these in the near future,” she added.
Ferrao also acknowledges the proactive role played by the Coconut Development Board in creating value addition programmes.
“There remains significant potential for innovative value-added products, not just derived from the fruit itself but spanning a wide range of eco-friendly items sourced from Konkan coconut coir, wood and beyond,” she said with optimism.
Also Read: Farmers grow coconuts in deserts to improve livelihoods
The lead photo at the top shows a bunch of Konkan coconuts. (Photo provided by Nilisha Ferrao)
Chandreyi Bandyopadhyay is a digital nomad, blogger and foodie who likes to explore the world and write about customs, traditions and culture.
