She quit a cushy job to revive tribal foods

Aruna Tirkey, 49, belonging to the Oraon tribal community, quit a high-profile job to revive tribal foods. Here is her journey in her own words.

I worked as a state consultant in the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP). As part of my job, I travelled across the country. 

While many people I met were curious about our indigenous foods – especially of Jharkhand – the tribes were uneasy to even talk about indigenous cuisine like maar jhor (rice starch water curry). 

I thought that the tribes were losing interest in our cuisine. 

I decided to revive the traditional foods that have been a part of tribal homes.

Watch: Indian food: Delicacies from the heartland

I forayed into this business by setting up a stall in Ranchi in 2016, during the International Day of World Indigenous People on 9 August. 

The stall was a huge success as people relished the tribal foods we served and gave positive feedback. It encouraged me to work for its revival. 

I eventually quit my job in 2018 and started Ajam Emba, a restaurant to serve exclusive tribal foods. 

They are not only delicious but also eco-friendly as the ingredients are from the forest or are locally sourced. 

I started by selling tribal foods that are normally cooked in Oraon and Munda households. To attract youth, I introduced fusion foods like mandwa momos made from finger millets and chilka roti made from rice.

Also Read: Step-by-step guide to make red ant chutney

At present, we serve over 20 varieties of tribal food items, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian, in our restaurant. 

Some of our delicacies include dal pitha, red rice, dhuska ghugni, phutkal chutney, kudrum chutney, handi mutton, desi chicken, and several others. 

The 40-seater restaurant offers exclusive tribal foods to the guests without any soft drinks or other beverages. 

We also have an open area where the customers enjoy the food sitting under the stars.

I’m happy that I am able to give employment to local people.

If my consultancy work took me across India, reviving tribal foods has taken me to Japan, Italy, and Taiwan.

Also Read: How the Oraon tribe makes Mahua liquor

I lost my husband in August last year and it was a major setback as he was the pillar of support. He used to handle all the documentation and other work related to the business. 

But I continue, as my mission is to revive tribal foods and make them popular even outside Jharkhand.

I haven’t tied up with food delivery apps as I want people to come here and taste the food in our eatery, where the paintings on the walls depict tribal lifestyle and culture. 

The fact that we receive a lot of non-tribal customers makes me believe that there’s a lot of potential for the traditional foods. 

It just needs proper marketing to withstand the competition from the fast food industry. I aim to do just that. 

Also Read: Tangkhul Naga catering start-up transforms traditional feasts