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CuisineLivelihoodsPhoto Essays

How women’s market sustains indigenous food system

By Worngachan A Shatsang
Published April 14, 2023
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Ava Market is a women-run market in the heart of Ukhrul, that serves as a one stop point for groceries and other kitchen needs for the local populace. The market also reflects the rich indigenous food system of the Tangkhul community, with various plants, herbs and local vegetables available throughout the year along with other regular vegetables. 

Spring in Ukhrul is often time for farmers to prepare their farms and fields. As such, vegetables grown in a farm or a kitchen garden are hard to come by during the season. Here women turn to foraging in the forests for herbs and plants; most of which possess high nutritional and medicinal values. 

Most of the herbs and plants sold in the market are what the women forage in the nearby forests from the neighbouring villages. Women vendors buy these at wholesale rates and then sell to customers at a retail price. As many as 20 varieties of freshly foraged herbs and plants are available at the market on a daily basis.

The foraged herbs and wild edibles often carry medicinal values. Some examples of the herbs are the Indian pennywort and broadleaf plantain. Indian pennywort is used to repair nervous tissue due to spinal injury, neuromuscular disorders, and to increase general brain function and memory. It is also used to treat a wide spectrum of skin conditions. Broadleaf plantain is known to have different pharmacological uses and is considered to have anti-inflammatory, analgesic, wound healing, antipyretic, anti-infective, anti-haemorrhagic, laxative, astringent properties.

Shiitake mushroom, which is known for its nutritional and medicinal properties (known to advance immunity and support cardiovascular health) and considered a superfood, is sold in the market during the spring months when the mushrooms are collected from the forests.

The diversity that exists in the local food system is also seen in the varieties of rice sold in the Ava Market where some vendors can be found selling as many as eight varieties of rice grains that have been grown locally. Each of these rice varieties has a different aroma and different levels of stickiness and softness.

A wide range of wild and exotic edible fruits are also available in the market during different seasons. From January till early April, wild edible fruits such as sumac berries, Indian gooseberry, Ceylon/ Indian olives. which also possess high nutritional as well as medicinal values, are available in the market. Sumac berries aid digestion and carry antiseptic properties. Indian gooseberries are a rich source of Vitamin C and are used in treating anaemia, hyperacidity, diarrhoea, eye inflammation and liver ailments. Indian olive is used to treat diarrhoea and dysentery. Its juice is considered an effective medicine for diabetes.    

Different types of organic pulses and grains which are grown locally are also available in the market depending on the availability of the particular pulses during their respective harvest season. Diverse varieties of soybeans along with grains such as black sesame, Job’s tears are also being sold in the market.

Local produce such as salt cakes, locally sourced honey, and others can be found in the market from time to time.

Spices such as ginger, ghost chilli (king chilli), mountain pepper, turmeric, turmeric powder, chilli powder, along with condiments like dried axone and dried bamboo shoots are also abundantly available in the market all year round.

All photos by Worngachan Shatsang

Worngachan A Shatsang is a freelance journalist based in Ukhrul, Manipur. He writes about football, rural life, farming and environmental issues. He is a Rural Media Fellow 2022 at Youth Hub, Village Square.

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